how to tune csr2 car tire pressure csr 2

The original CSR Racing was all about finding the Perfect Shift Pattern (and occasionally getting a little help from your mechanic).

CSR2 is all about doing all of the tuning yourself so YOU can control your car’s optimum performance under different racing conditions.

There are three tuning options that are available in CSR2:

  • Nitrous (Nitrous Oxide)
  • Transmission (Final Drive)
  • Tires (Tire Pressure)

You should change your tuning settings every time you install a new upgrade and depending on the type of race;  1/4 mile or 1/2 mile.  This is imperative if you desire to defeat the various crew bosses and their crews.

How to tune your car for 1/4 mile races:

How to tune your Nitrous:

This tuning option allows you to control the duration and intensity of your nitrous injection for optimum performance under different race conditions. First conduct a test drive to establish a baseline. Then purchase a diagnostic. For 1/4 mile races you want a short burst and a very high bhp. Set your Nitrous Oxide to the somewhere around 137 BHP and 2.5 seconds (depending on your car). Your goal should be to get your 1/4 mile time as low as possible.

How to tune your Final Drive:

This tuning option allows you to control the transmission gear ratio for maximum performance under different race conditions. For the best 1/4 time and 0-60 mph time you want to set it somewhere just past the middle of the scale. I have mine set to 4.18 for my Tier 3 BMW M4. Keep checking your diagnostic report to achieve the best results. It will differ for different cars so you may want to check before entering different races. If you notice that the races are becoming more challenging (and trust me you will) that’s an indication that you may need to adjust your settings.

How to tune your Tire Pressure:

This tuning option allows you to control the acceleration and grip for added performance in the 1/4 mile. This is a short race so you want the right balance between acceleration and grip to ensure that you get off to a faster start than your opponent. Basically, you want more grip to minimize wheelspin so you can apply the Nitrous as early as possible. Again, the setting depends on the car and the upgrades that have been installed, but for my Tier 3 BMW M4 I set my tire pressure to 14 PSI. Once you establish an early lead it is almost impossible for your opponent to win no matter what he has under the hood.

How to tune your car for 1/2 mile races:

How to tune your Nitrous:

This tuning option allows you to control the duration and intensity of your nitrous injection for optimum performance under different race conditions. First conduct a test drive to establish a baseline. Then purchase a diagnostic. For 1/2 mile races you want a longer burst and a slightly lower bhp. The reason for this is you don’t want to use up your energy too quickly…you want to save some for after the halfway point. Your goal should be to get your 1/2 mile time as low as possible.

How to tune your Final Drive:

This tuning option allows you to control the transmission gear ratio for maximum performance under different race conditions. For the best 1/2 time and 0-100 mph time you want to set it somewhere toward the low end of the scale. Keep checking your diagnostic report to achieve the best results. It will differ for different cars so you may want to check before entering different races. If you notice that the races are becoming more challenging that’s an indication that you may need to adjust your settings.

How to tune your Tire Pressure:

This tuning option allows you to control the acceleration and grip for added performance in the 1/2 mile race. This is a longer race so you want the right balance between acceleration and grip to ensure that you get off to a good start. I recommend a tire pressure of 25 PSI or above (again, it depends on the car). Once your wheelspin stops you can deploy your nitrous and pull away from your opponent and enjoy the glorious CSR 2 scenery whilst cruising to a much assured victory.

Thanks for stopping by and feel free to ask a question and/or leave a comment below.


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RC Bonay


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66 Responses to How to Tune Your CSR2 Cars for Optimum Performance

  1. Paul Quintero says:

    Roland, I’m a rookie at this ,bare with me I have a Dodge Viper barely starting in tier4 iaam still getting money for the upgrades the tuner is the only access I have, I need to no the settings ,when I get them would it be something like this nitro 135 the middle category 5.00 and tire pressure x15/85? Thanks allot enjoy you insight!

    • Roland Bonay says:

      Paul, sorry for taking so long to reply. I don’t own the Viper so I don’t know the best tuning. Perhaps someone on this thread will be able to help.

    • Remy says:

      Thank you very much for sharing this information. I really appreciate you taking the time to explain and go over the “basics” for new players. I will share this with new players. I was looking for an advanced player tuning guide however when I found your page. I am Hoping you can help me. For example there are come cars who’s best tune is actually a negative number one such car is the Dodge Viper ACR extreme arrow. In this example I put it to it’s best tune highest number possible. When I do that I only get a good time if I get a perfect start (with this car that is hard to do) . All other starts are a truly horrible time (add 3-10 seconds to your best time) to correct this I move the tuning one point to the left for final drive and one point to the left for tire pressure. This gives me a negative 999 tune however now I only get those horrible times if I’m on the right side of the perfect start, and I get consistently good times if I’m on the left side of perfect start or on perfect start. Also since a late shift is now not as bad I also avoid a good chunk of the wheel spin and can get run times that are way better than the dyno time consistently. Because this car and others contradict the “beginners guides” for best tuning that are posted all over the forums, I was hoping you might have an “Advanced guide” or “Experts guide” for tuning, for those cars who’s best tune is in the speed to BP ratio not the final Evo PP rating. What I’m doing now is the basic tuning every one does as advised in most beginers guides then after that I take a second step by calculating:

      “seconds÷(BP+PP)”

      I do this for best tune, separately for 1/4 and 1/2 mile races and this works great for winning a high number of live races, but my way is difficult and take a lot of time and only works to compare curent tuning setting to others that you have done and written down it does not find “the best number that is”, it only finds “the best that you have tried so far”. I have found the best tune for most cars is the highest PP like you have shown here, however there are many cars that’s best tune is a different number from it’s highest PP. The T1 3star version of the R-type for example its best tune is some where between 80-70% of it’s max PP and you have a very narrow range on the far left of the final drive tuning that is very hard to find to get that best tune. The next best tune wich is 1-2 seconds longer is the highest PP you can tune it for but this difference can be the deciding factor in winning that Tempest Ruby expert license #2 boss car with out supper nitro or not. Thank you very much for reading my long question with examples I hope you can provide some advanced tuning advice for the “difficult cars” or tuning addvice for less difficult to obtain “consistent” run times. Have a great day and happy racing.

  2. Shadow says:

    I need to some on how to tune an aventador lp750 SV with stage 5 upgrades and no stage 6. Im trying to beat my record for 1/2 which is 12.2 idk if my car could go faster than that or not.

  3. rylee says:

    How do I get a faster 1/2 mile time for my Lamborghini Berlinetta?

  4. Yesica says:

    Any advice for an Audy TT

  5. Jayesh says:

    I have T4 Camaro z28 with all stage 5 upgrades and 1 stage 6 upgrade. What should be tuning of my car to win victor Kidd’s car

  6. Drake M. says:

    Hey guys, I have an F12 Ferrari, I have all star 5 parts except for body which is stage six, I can’t seem to get more stage 6 parts to save my life, any ideas on how to get some? I’ve been playing so much and I can literally buyb13 silver boxes now and I have over 1k gold along with 1.1 million dollars. I’m stuck and have nothing to spend money on but more unneeded cars

  7. Jameskankula says:

    What is the best time for the p1gtr to beat the 11.9 sec run please help

  8. Peter says:

    Does anyone have a good tuning for my porsche 918 for the sprintrace under 1.9 sec.

    • BeeeeWilderd says:

      If your doing a sprint in under 2 seconds, what do you need help for?

      • Remy says:

        it is not the 1/4 or 1/2 mile race they are looking for help with the sprint races are first to 100mph or first to 200mph usually and most of them you have to have under 1.5

        the best way to win these is not with “best tune”, but with “fastest start”. often max power shortest duration nitro (all the way to the right) and max acceleration (all the way to the left) with 50/50 grip is a good place to start and adjust from there for best 0-200 time only.

        Ignore your 1/4, 1/2, and PP values these will not apply for the best sprint.

        Also I wish we could PvP the 0-200 sprint it would be great if any players that agree would do as I have and send a message via the support link to admin asking for a second live race arena to be added for sprint races only.

  9. Seb says:

    Hey Roland,
    If I lose a boss battle for the boss car. Can I somehow retry it? Or is it always a single-try-shot?
    Thanks
    Seb

  10. Drew says:

    Dose anyone have a good time for the t1 Toyota and or the 650s McLaren

  11. Meekah says:

    I run a dyno and it gives me a 1/2 mile time that is just impossible for me to get if I perfect launch and shift all the way through. Totally stumped as to how I get to that figure?!

    • Remy says:

      wait till half way between 2nd and 3rd gear to hit nitro.
      get perfect start
      perfect shifts are not good enough it has to be right exactly as you hit the green not after.

      It is supper hard to do but can be done. consequently if you find you are usually early or usually late you can move the final drive tuning one or two points to the left or right to compesate for your own reflexes and actually get that best tune time even though your not in best tune setting and dyno says it is not in best tune or that time does not appear in your current dyno rating.

      for example best tune is +300 and time is 10.543 seconds
      your actual time when you do it is 10.765 seconds
      you missed perfect something some where and just can’t hit the dyno number
      you adjust your final drive two places to the left
      your tune is now +275 and time is 10.654 seconds
      your actual time when you do it is 10.555 you still miss perfect something some where and now still meet or beat your dyno number and come a lot closer to your best tune speed more consistently.

      This is an example and applies to many cars but not all cars, it is a useful tool to use when you have a difficult car or are having a difficult time meeting or beating your dyno time or beating a boss time. The cars that this works best for are cars that have worst tune one to the left or right of the best tune.

  12. Jason says:

    Hi Roland, i have a 488 on CSR2 with 5 stage 6 parts, is there a certain setup i need to win shaxs car

    • Roland Bonay says:

      Hi Jason,

      If you have 5 stage 6 parts I would think your 488 has a high rating and you should be able to win shaxs car with little effort. Unless of course I don’t know what I’m talking about because I only have 2 stage 6 parts on my 488 which have not been enough to allow me to beat him. My current 488 rating is 701. Any tips on how to get more stage 6 upgrades will be greatly appreciated.

      Thanks for stopping by!

      • Jason says:

        the strange thing was i was tuning my huracan when i kept getting Stage 6 parts for a 488, several months later i was showing a friend my cars and realised i had a 488, so i abandoned the huracan and started work on the 488. all i need is 2 more Stage 6 parts then i have them all, then i can sort out the fusion parts after.

      • Drew says:

        To get more fusion an stage 6 parts u can go purchase that same car an strip it I’ve gotten stage 6 parts that way b4

        • Roland Bonay says:

          Hi Drew…can you explain this process in greater detail?

          • Lugnutz93 says:

            Say you have viper that you won and are having trouble getting stage 6 parts or fusion parts.. If you go buy another viper, you can pay 50,000 or however much to strip it which will give you viper fusion parts and likely a stage 6 parts as well that you can now place on to your original viper that you’ve been building forever. You can strip any dodge car for fusion parts and they will.work for viper. As long as they are the same manufacturer. Doesn’t work for stage 6 though.

          • Roland Bonay says:

            I have to try this for my ferrari spyder so I can finally beat Mr Stax…thanks for the tip!

  13. jason mowen says:

    Its very odd but they made the games tuning complicated for a reason so not everyone would have to exact same timed cars… some cars go faster with stage 4 intake than with stage 6…. too much tire spin with the extra power u hve to test and tume play with what parts are on the car all stage 6 might not be the best for times just max hp

  14. RWK says:

    Hi,

    I am new to this game.
    There were crap loads of Stingray running 8s quarter mile.
    1)How did they manage to get this sort of time for a T3 car?
    2)Why did the system put me to run with these super T3 car (Stingray)in live race where my Ford Mustang GT can only do 9.5s
    3)Max the EVO points doesn’t necessarily the best performance in 1/4 or 1/2. Is this correct?
    4)How to tune the car to perform best in 1/4 and 1/2 race if not relying on the EVO points?

    Please advise. Thanks

    • Roland Bonay says:

      I don’t understand the live races any more. Maybe the hackers have an edge…I don’t know for sure…just saying. I tend to stick to the other (non-live) racing events. Thanks for your comment!

    • Jeremy says:

      Tier 3 cars that perform like that either 1 have stage 6 parts and a bunch of Fusion parts or two they were won from the rare Imports and are a rare car meaning you can fit more Fusion parts to them making them just to sleep faster then there non rare counterpart. Don’t Focus so much on tier 3 Tier 1 2 and 3 are quite boring once you get into tier 4 and 5 that’s when the game gets real fun. Just remember keep racing keep fusing and keep tuning eventually when you get that rare tier 5 car you’ll start earning stage 6 upgrades and by then hopefully you had it sold all your Fusion parts and you confuse it giving you the edge on any AI race and you can definitely be a contender in live races.

    • Drew says:

      They must have stuck u in a class where they have done some fine tuning along with lots of fusion parts

    • Remy says:

      your BP + PP determine your opponents in live race
      to get easier opponents you have to calculate your
      Speed to Point ratio

      Dyno seconds ÷(BP+PP)

      the better your ratio the more likely you are to beat your
      opponents in live race.
      Many cars get close to their best ratio with:
      Stage 4 transmission
      Stage 6 tires
      stock Body
      (for the other parts I’ll let you figure it out)

      Also “best tune” will not always give you your best ratio.
      you have to calculate each point to see how many
      mili seconds per point change you are getting when you tune.

      Also you will see that tier 4 cars usually have
      better ratios than tier 5 cars.
      Also tier 3 has better ratios than tier 4, an so on.
      the reason the higher tier cars are faster is they
      have more points not better ratios. This is why
      lower tier cars have a better chance to beat higher
      tier cars in live race most of the time.

      I hope this helps you get better results in live race.

  15. CrashingTiger says:

    You absolutely do NOT need to buy the super nitrous to win the boss cars. A little luck with a stage 6 part or two and fusion parts will get you the wins. I won every boss car but the tier 4 boss (I blew that race. Oops.) And I did it without spending a dime. It just takes time because you have to win a number of other races to get the parts you need.

    • Roland Bonay says:

      Thanks for this reponse. It’ll help people who want to win boss cars without spending real cash on super nitrous.

      • 1337Pwnzor says:

        I am officially stuck in T4…
        I’m stuck to the point where I was able to buy the 570S without beating the final two races for T4. (no really)
        Bought the Vanquish (645+297), and now I regret it. Only have stage 6 nos, and the Aston is running 14.0-14.2 1/2, few tenths short of 13.9/13.8. Oh boy.

  16. Kunwar Zaid says:

    hi…i am using T-2 A 45 AMG kindly help me in tuning…Power of my car is 455.

  17. YP FONG says:

    I m using a lamborghini aventador lp 700 and i fully upgrade it… All parts are stage 5 except air intake is stage 6…but my car rating is just 702…so what could i do?

    • Roland Bonay says:

      All you can do is continue winning keys and opening crates and winning the daily mystery race until you win the remaining stage 6 parts for the aventador. It may take a while…I’ve been trying for 3 months to win extra stage 6 parts for my Ferrari 488 Spider. Good luck!

  18. 1337Pwnzor says:

    Are the boss cars worth getting like before, or not anymore? I have the T1 boss car, but with the new stage 6 upgrades I’m suddenly not so sure on getting those.
    On a side note, can you share your tunes for your T1-T5 cars? Would be really helpful, just like how you did in CSR1. Thanks! – 1337Pwnzor

    • Roland Bonay says:

      Not anymore. It takes at least 2 stage 6 upgrades and the $5 special nitro to win a boss car and if you make a tiny mistake you end up losing the race and the $5 you paid for the nitrous. I’ll share my tunes over the course of the next few days. Thanks for stopping by!

      • 1337Pwnzor says:

        Well, dayum. Was planning to get all boss cars, cause the T1 boss car helped out in some events and I figured it’ll be the same for T2-T5.
        Also, I was interested to have some sort of “best cars for Tier n” like before, but I realized that’s out of the question because of new mechanics like stage 6 upgrades, fusion parts, tuning, and limited cars.
        And yes, I discovered this page because of CSR1, lol
        Great site!

      • 1337Pwnzor says:

        I don’t know how, but I managed to win Ashleigh’s CLA 45 AMG on just stage 5 upgrades and no $5 nos. Maybe that rule only applies to T5? I’m not sure.

        • Roland Bonay says:

          You beat her because you raced a perfect (or near perfect) race. I find it easier to hit the optimal shift points in T1 thru T3 but it gets much more difficult in T4 and T5 – there is just no room for error at those stages. I’m betting you’ll be going after all the boss cars and I’d like to know the results so please come back and let me (and everyone else) know how it goes.

          • 1337Pwnzor says:

            Well, I am going after all five boss cars, because they are good cars for some events that require certain parts to be at a certain stage. Like one event I had recently, where the req is T2 car with stage 5 intake. I don’t want to dump my money on a single part that gives minimal gains. But luckily I had the T1 boss car, which is classed as T2 and has stage 6 bits all around. So, that helped win more cash (and 90 gold, gold cup I think).

          • Roland Bonay says:

            I have a feeling you can win all of the boss cars. Good luck!

          • 1337Pwnzor says:

            Sure hope so, thanks! Still stuck in T3, wondering which is the best cash car.

            In case anyone is interested, I have the boss cars’ times that you need to beat for a sure win. Well, for T1 and T2 which are 1/4 mi races, aside from T5’s sub 11.9s 1/2 mile. Also have the tunes I used, although in that case both cars had a minimum of 5-6 fusion parts.
            You can hit me up ingame as well, under the name 1337HammerTime.

          • 1337Pwnzor says:

            Well, just got Kurtz’s Mustang HPE750, and I found it quite average really. The gearing isn’t too bad, except for the 5th and 6th gears. They’re too long. Well the real challenge starts, tuning for the half mile races. As always, I have the time one needs to beat for the car, and the tunes.

      • Big T says:

        I did it all, got my 6’s, bought the nitro, drove the perfect race…..and still lost to #5 boss…rip off.

        • Roland Bonay says:

          It can be frustrating. That’s why I no longer buy nitro. And I no longer participate and bet in live races. The game is still OK if you focus on the events that do not require purchases. Thanks for commenting.

          • 1337Pwnzor says:

            T1 boss car: KJ’s Toyota 86 RB
            Time to beat: 13.391 (!/4, tested twice)*
            T2 boss car: Ashleigh’s CLA45 AMG Shooting Brake
            Time to beat: 12.015 (1/4, tested twice)**
            T3 boss car: Kurtz’s Mustang HPE750
            Time to beat: 10.589 (1/4)**
            T4 boss car: Victor’s Project 7
            Time to beat: 14.1xx (1/2, stuck)***
            T5 boss car: Shax’s Agera R
            Time to beat: 11.912 (1/2)****

            Notes:
            * – As long as car is maxed with a few fusion parts + tuning, it’s an easy 20g and a free car
            ** – required/requires at least one stage 6 part and few parts + tuning + (near)perfect race
            *** – minimum of 2 stage 6 parts and probably 20% total fusion parts + (near) perfect race
            **** – Just like what many people (and Roland) said, get the car which you have the most stage 6 parts for. Minimum of 3 stage 6 parts + lots of fusion parts (25% and up) + tuning + concentration.

            Special Note: The 11.912 1/2 time for Shax’s Agera came from someone on pocketgamer(dot)co(dot)uk, while the 14.1xx bit is just me guesstimating, as I haven’t beat Victor and got his car (yet).

            There you have it, a breakdown on the boss cars’ time to beat in order to get a free car (and not lose some g’s). Sorry for long post lel

            Thanks for reading! – 1337HammerTime

          • Roland Bonay says:

            Thanks for sharing…this is going to help alot of people (including me).

        • Diego Friedman says:

          if you do “good” shifts sometimes you can make your times faster

  19. saad says:

    Hello,

    if you can help me on on Mclaren p1 csr racing 2

    Need shift pattern & tune

    upgrades 41 / 42
    fusion 110 / 128
    713 / 1086

    Race 1/2 miles
    dyno 9.718
    top speed 233

    what i could do for now is like 10.25 for 1/2 miles

    • Roland Bonay says:

      Sorry Saad,

      I do not own the McLaren P1 so I can’t help you with shift pattern or tune. Maybe someone else will provide an answer, or better yet I will ask around and get back to you very soon.

      • saad says:

        Well the game is very amazing actually LaFerrari 1/2 mile now doing 8.6 to 8.8 i saw many people doing it i have one also 42/42 & 122/128 fusion parts and i cant go below 9.6 and their top speed comes like 300 mph. Trying to do various changes but no major diff evo at 1395.

        Any suggestion on that

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